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Textile Categories

How categories work on Tengiva?


 

1 : We do it differently.

 

The most important thing to remember about Tengiva’s categories, is this :

We don’t want to force you towards specific fabrics for specific end products, when in reality they could be used for other products as well. We find it limits creativity and doesn’t serve you best.


For example, we won’t say “shirting fabrics” because they could actually be used to make dresses, head bands, pocketing, and much more.




So, How do you search on Tengiva?

For this example we'll take a fleece. 

Fleece can be weft knits, warp knits, wovens or multi-layers. 

With this in mind, you can understand why we didn’t create a category named fleece, it would overlap other categories.


Let’s consider a few options and differences to explain our point : 

 

A traditional hooded cotton fleece
would be a jersey + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 1 side mechanical finish;



A traditional polar fleece (high pile)

would be  a solid warp knit (usually knitted on a raschel machine) + a cut-pile third yarn (added during the knitting process) + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 2 sides (mechanical finish).



A traditional polar fleece (low pile) 
would be a jersey knit + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 2 sides (mechanical finish)



A traditional pyjama cotton fleece 
would be a 1x1 plain weave + a brushed 1 side (mechanical finish)



A traditional softshell 
would be a 2 layers composed material + a water repellent (chemical finish) + a brushed 1 side (mechanical finish)



And that’s just fleece!

Basically, you’re the creator of your products destiny!





2 : Introduction to the textile categories

 

On each category page header you will find 3 things to help you :

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Wovens

Yarns coming from two directions (warp and weft) that overlap each other.



Woven_PlainWeave_1x1.jpg?1558110077422

Plain weave

The face of the fabric is flat and uniform.
Though, its construction offers the possibility to conceive lighter weight textiles, it can also be used in heavier textiles.
It is, by construction, more sensitive to tearing, than twill.




Woven_Twill_1x3.jpg?1558110112472

Twill weave

This construction offers a better resistance to tearing, compared to an equal composition of plain weave.
It's easily recognizable by the diagonal texture on its surface, created by the float offsets.




Satin_Weave.jpg?1558110155627

Satin weave

This construction is mostly used with lustrous filaments and/or fibers.
The floats, over or under 4 or more yarns, have the upside of revealing the shine of these yarns,
but also the downside of rendering these materials sensitive to snag.




Complexe_CrepeWeave.jpg?1558110176087

Complexe weave

This category includes jacquards and more complex woven structures.
They are usually selected for their surface texture and visual effects.
Each one has its strengths and weaknesses.
Just remember that, the longer the floats are (over 3 yarns and more), the more sensitive to snags the fabric becomes.




Knits

Single orientation yarns (warp or weft) that interlace.



Weft_Knit_InterlockHorizontal.jpg?155811

Weft knits

Are weft yarns that interlace horizontally. They can be knitted on single or double beds (frames).
Single beds are called single knits and are mainly jersey, ribs, jacquard single knit, purl, etc.
Double beds are named double knit and are mainly : Interlock vertical, interlock horizontal (Ponte di roma) or jacquard double knit.




Warp_Knit_Rib_1x1.jpg?1558114995824

Warp knits

Are warp yarns that interlace vertically. These knit tend to be less extendable, but more resistant to runs, than weft knits.
Warp knits are always flat knitted. They’re sometimes called Raschel knit, named after the type of machine used to do the knitting.




Non_Woven.jpg?1558116053626

Non-Wovens

Are randomly placed fibers or filaments (not yarns) that are maintained together by either glue, mechanically induced tangle or heat application (calendering).
They are commonly used as filling layer, such as insulation, or as felts for outer shell fabrics.




Composed_Materials_3x3.jpg?1558116070053

Composed materials (multi-layers)

Multiple layers of different fabrics that are assembled together by a lamination process (glue) to become a single fabric.
They can sometimes include a membrane, but not always. Other times, they can be used as double face fabrics.
** please note that a coating, unlike the membranes, is not considered a layer. It’sa chemical finish that’s applied to a fabric. (see filters)




3 : Filters and categories (GIF)

Step 1 : Click on “Textile”

Step 2 : Based on what you’re looking for (specify :
fiber content; textile construction; color, etc) activate the filters you want.

Step 3 : Click on the products for which you’d like to get detailed information.



** Oh! whenever you see this icon

  fwEPCkkBniGE0smBJjnWXlMroNUrx3QJjCAihB9K

=  It’s a downloadable file (like specifications, test reports, inspection reports, etc)  

Simply click top open!




4 : Detailed filters


Colors

Lab Color Coordinates are commonly used in the textile industry, at the dyeing stage.

At the design stage of a fabric, companies will more commonly use color catalogs, such as Pantone.


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A common ground

At Tengiva, we prioritize Lab Color Coordinates under D65 light for 3 reasons :

1. Its predominance in the industry ;

2. Its precision (color catalogs are limited) ;

3. It's connected to a color scheme that allows the customer to select a color with greater precision.


If you know the Lab coordinates of the color you are seeking, it’s very easy!

Just add the coordinates in the field range.

If you don’t, no problem! It’s just as easy!

Select the color you wish on the color scheme and the system will extract the color coordinates and add a range variation.

** GIF click on color




Construction add-on

Construction add-ons are fancy yarns, sequins, loop pile third yarns (terry), etc, that you add to the textile during its manufacturing process that will change its :


Properties
(example : a cut-pile or a loop-pile third yarn will be added to improve the insulation properties of the fabric by changing it into a fleece)

Visual and texture
(example : crepe yarn will make the surface more rugged, while fancy yarns and sequins will make it more original)

Body
(example : spacer yarns will create 3D materials, which will play on its thickness, render it stiffer and provide more structure to hold shapes)




Chemical Finishes

Chemical treatments applied to textile on the finishing line. These are mainly added to improve specific performances like : water repellency, stain release, wrinkle resistance, etc.

*Good to know : a coating, unlike a membrane, is a chemical product applied in liquid form liquid stage on the finished fabric, and then cured to solidify and become the coating we see on the finished product.




Mechanical finishes

Mechanical actions applied to textile on the finishing line. These are mainly to change performances or visual aspects of a fabric, such as : calendering to add brilliance or reduce the air permeability, brushing to add a fluffy surface or to improve the insulation, etc.




Reason of availability

The most important thing to know is : First or Second grade.

First grade textiles : are (to simplify it) first quality materials

Second grade textiles : are (to simplify it) defective materials

We ask our suppliers to explain why a textile is second grade so you can assess  whether it serves you or not, depending on your usage.
If you see this icon ( fwEPCkkBniGE0smBJjnWXlMroNUrx3QJjCAihB9K ) next to the reason of availability, it’s a file that contains more information.




I knew all this already

Good, let's start sourcing