Textile Categories

How do categories work on Tengiva?



We do it differently.


The most important thing to remember about Tengiva’s categories, is this :

We don’t want to force you towards specific fabrics for specific end products, when in reality they could be used for other products as well. We find it limits creativity and doesn’t serve you best.

For example, we won’t say “shirting fabrics” because they could actually be used to make dresses, head bands, pocketing, and much more.
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Instead, we focus on their construction.

• How is the textile made?
• What is the fiber content?
• Does it have any special finishes or performances?

So, How do you search on Tengiva?

For this example we'll take a fleece. Fleece can be weft knits, warp knits, wovens or multi-layers. With this in mind, you can understand why we didn’t create a category named fleece, it would overlap other categories.

Let’s consider a few options and differences to explain our point :


A traditional hooded cotton fleece

Would be a jersey + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 1 side (mechanical finish);

A traditional polar fleece (high pile)

Would be a solid warp knit (usually knitted on a raschel machine) + a cut-pile third yarn (added during the knitting process) + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 2 sides (mechanical finish).

A traditional polar fleece (low pile)

Would be a jersey knit + a third yarn loop pile (add-on added during the knitting process) + a brushed 2 sides (mechanical finish)

A traditional pyjama cotton fleece

Would be a 1x1 plain weave + a brushed 1 side (mechanical finish)

A traditional softshell

Would be a 2 layers composed material + a water repellent (chemical finish) + a brushed 1 side (mechanical finish)

And that’s just fleece!
Basically, you’re the creator of your product's destiny!

Introduction to the textile categories

On each category page header you will find
3 tools to help you


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Wovens

Yarns coming from two directions (warp and weft) that overlap each other.

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Plain weave

The face of the fabric is flat and uniform. its construction offers the possibility to conceive lighter weight textiles, though it can also be used in heavier textiles. It is, by construction, more sensitive to tearing than twill.

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Twill weave

This construction offers a better resistance to tearing, compared to an equal composition of plain weave. It's easily recognizable by the diagonal texture on its surface, created by the float offsets.

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Satin weave

This construction is mostly used with lustrous filaments and/or fibers. The floats, over or under 4 or more yarns, have the upside of revealing the shine of these yarns, but also the downside of rendering these materials sensitive to snag.

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Complexe weave

This category includes jacquards and more complex woven structures. They are usually selected for their surface texture and visual effects. Each one has its strengths and weaknesses. Just remember that the longer the floats are (over 3 yarns and more), the more sensitive to snags the fabric becomes.

Knits

Single orientation yarns (warp or weft) that interlace.

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Weft knits

Weft yarns interlacing horizontally. They can be knitted on single or double beds (frames). Single beds are called single knits and are mainly jersey, ribs, jacquard single knit, purl, etc. Double beds are named double knit and are mainly Interlock vertical, interlock horizontal (Ponte di roma) or jacquard double knit.

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Warp knits

Warp yarns interlacing vertically. These knits tend to be less extendable, but more resistant to runs than weft knits. Warp knits are always flat knitted. They’re sometimes called Raschel knit, named after the type of machine used to do the knitting.

Others

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Non-Wovens

Randomly placed fibers or filaments (not yarns) that are maintained together by either glue, mechanically induced tangle or heat application (calendering). They are commonly used as filling layers, such as insulation, or as felts for outer shell fabrics.

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Composed materials (multi-layers)

Multiple layers of different fabrics that are assembled together by a lamination process (glue) to become a single fabric. They can sometimes include a membrane, but not always. Other times, they can be used as double face fabrics. ** Please note that a coating, unlike the membranes, is not considered a layer. It’s a chemical finish that’s applied to a fabric. (see filters)

Color

Of course, you can also choose to search by color. You can select different color filters such as color type, printed, yarn dyed pattern, closest Pantone and CIELAB.

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Color type

Our color search tool is quite extensive.
First of all, you can choose between searching for:

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Solid

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Patterned

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Heathered

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Greige

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All


Pattern

If you want to search by pattern, you can also decide between:

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Printed

Design is applied on top of finished fabric

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Yarn dyed

Design is made with woven colored yarns


CIELAB

To actually search by color, here at Tengiva we use the CIELAB color space.
You can start inside the color picker by choosing the shade you are looking for, then use the L*a*b* values to refine or expend your selection.

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Fiber content

You can also choose to search by fiber content. Please note that if you select more than one type of fibers, the search engine will expand to give you any textiles containing either fibers selected. It will not reduce the results to only show you textiles containing both fibers.

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